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February 11, 2018 / Ken Crooker / Babble, Commentary, Fountain Pens, Ink, Pen Pain / 22 Comments

Iron Gall Ink: Redux

Pen Pain Banner for Iron Gall Ink: Redux

A while back, I published a post describing my experiences with iron gall ink and how one specific ink ate a pen and a spare nib. If you haven’t read it, I’d recommend doing so before reading this post. This is going to be a long, photo-heavy article, so I’m not going to rehash the initial story, which has proven to be really popular. It’s sparked quite a debate across reddit, including one in which a lovely redditor repeatedly called me stupid and idiotic.

According to this fool and at least one other, I shouldn’t have been surprised that the ink ate a Chinese pen and two Chinese nibs because Chinese nibs are made from cheap steel. Only problem with that hypothesis is that we have no idea who makes the Chinese nibs, where they come from, or what steel is used. Quite simply: No one knows for sure if their steel is of low quality. And even if it IS low quality, we don’t know if iron gall ink would produce different effects on them compared to “high-quality steel” nibs.

My opinion is and always has been that even if the steel in the Chinese nibs was low quality, a fountain pen ink should still not be able to eat a hole through it in a matter of 10 days. That’s. Really. Fast. It’s also an indicator that the ink is way more acidic than it should be. Anyway, along comes…

Shawn Newton to the Rescue

Everybody’s favorite teacher-turned-penmaker Shawn Newton reached out to me recently to see if I had any of the “culprit” ink left. I told him I did, and he offered to send me two German steel nibs to test with the ink. Thanks, Shawn! When his nibs arrived, I found one to be gold-plated and the other one was two-tone. I wasn’t sure if the gold plating would hinder corrosion, so I figured that if Shawn was sacrificing two nice nibs, so could I. I scrounged around and found a couple more steel nibs to experiment on. Let’s make this second experiment a real party!

Setup & Expectations

For this experiment, I submerged four steel fountain pen nibs in Organics Studio Iron Gall ink (from the same sample that killed my Hero 9315 and an extra Jinhao nib), checking on them periodically to assess any damage and take photos. The four nibs used in this follow-on experiment were:

  1. Bock #5, gold-plated, Medium I think, made in Germany (provided by Shawn)
  2. Jowo/Newton Pens #5, two-tone, Broad, made in Germany (provided by Shawn)
  3. Pilot from a Metropolitan, Medium, made in Japan
  4. Knox #6, 1.1mm stub, made in Germany

An image of all four steel nibs (Knox, Jowo, Bock, and Pilot), lit from behind for a clear view of the nib's edges and verification that they didn't start with any holes in them.

The four nibs are a mix of new and used, so all were gently washed with Dawn dishwashing soap to remove any traces of ink and machining oils. The vials were also washed in Dawn, to remove any potential contaminants.

Close images of the front and back sides of the Bock gold-plated, steel nib (M?) before being soaked in Organics Studio Aristotle Iron Gall ink.
Close images of the front and back sides of the Jowo/Newton Pens two-tone steel nib (B) before being soaked in Organics Studio Aristotle Iron Gall ink.
Close images of the front and back sides of the Knox #6 steel nib (1.1mm stub) before being soaked in Organics Studio Aristotle Iron Gall ink.
Close images of the front and back sides of the Pilot Metropolitan steel nib (F) before being soaked in Organics Studio Aristotle Iron Gall ink.
Some notes on nib positioning:
  1. The original Hero nib was in a pen at the time, and the ink was trapped against the nib surface by both the feed and the interior of the section.
  2. The Jinhao nib was soaked on its own, face down, in the ink.
  3. These four nibs were also soaked in the ink face down, with each nib in its own plastic vial (same way the Jinhao nib was).

Shawn Newton’s Expectations: Shawn expected that these nibs would be just fine and that we would learn that it was just cheap junky metal in the Chinese nibs.

My Expectations: I expected that the gold plating on the Jowo and Bock nibs would hinder corrosion and that after the first few days I’d see a minimum of corrosion on those nibs. I expected the Knox and Pilot nibs to suffer the most after the first few days. I expected the Knox nib to fare the worst overall. As you’ll see in the next section, I was all sorts of wrong.

Day 1: Kicking It All Off

Here are the steps I took with the clean nibs & vials:

  1. 25 drops (~ 0.5 ml) of Aristotle added to each clean vial
  2. Clean nibs added to vials, one nib per vial
  3. Vials positioned on their sides, with the tops (capped ends) slightly elevated to pool ink around the point of each nib
  4. Nibs were positioned with their “logo side” facing down, and their tines toward the bottom (closed end) of the vials
The four nibs (Pilot, Bock, Knox, and Jowo) positioned with the sample of Organics Studio Aristotle Iron Gall ink.
25 drops (approximately 0.5 mm of Organics Studio Aristotle Iron Gall ink added to each of four vials (one per nib).
All four nibs (Knox, Pilot, Jowo, Bock) added to the vials of ink. There were 25 drops (approximately 0.5 ml) of ink added to each one.
All four nibs (Knox, Pilot, Jowo, Bock) settled in for a long soak in Organics Studio Aristotle Iron Gall Ink. Tops of vials are elevated to pool ink at the bottom.

Day 7: Shock and Awe After Six Days

I’ll say this now: I knew there would be corrosion, but I was completely wrong on almost all my expectations around the specific nibs. After the nibs sat in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink for a mere six days, I removed the nibs from the ink, gently cleaned them with Dawn, and patted them dry with a clean paper towel.

An image of all four steel nibs (Knox, Jowo, Bock, and Pilot), lit from behind for a clear view of any major damage the nibs sustained. The Bock and Jowo nibs fared worse, having been rendered completely destroyed after six days.

Here’s how the nibs fared:

  • Bock Nib: Lots of pits around slit, logo, edges. Tip of one tine missing. HOLE all the way through the nib.
  • Newton/Jowo: Ate the metal away inside the slit, lots of micro pits in the gold surface; pits around edges.
  • Knox: One spot on the end (What?!?!)
  • Pilot: Small pits around engraved logo, tines, and edges.
Top side view of the Bock nib after six days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This backlit image shows the hole that the ink ate through the center of the nib.
Top view of the Bock nib after six days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This shot shows how the corrosion around the tipping material on one tine ate it away to the point that it fell off. You can also see severe pitting and corrosion around the slit.
Underside view of the Bock nib after six days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This shot shows how the corrosion around the tipping material on one tine ate it away to the point that it fell off. You can also see one deep pit in the edge of the tine.
Underside view of the Bock nib after six days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This amazing shot shows how the corrosion around the tipping material on one tine ate it away to the point that it fell off. You can also see numerous pits around the outside edges and around the slit.
Top view of the Jowo nib after six days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This backlit view very nicely shows the damage to the steel around the nib's slit.
Underside view of the Jowo nib after six days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This view really shows the damage to the steel around the nib's slit and in some major pitting along the outside edges.
Underside view of the Jowo nib after six days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This view shows many pits corroded along the outside edges of the nib.
Top view of the Jowo nib after six days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This view shows the damage to the steel around the nib's slit.
Top view of the Knox nib after six days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. There's no corrosion to speak of.
Top view of the Pilot nib after six days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This view nicely shows one single pit in the back edge of the nib. Can't determine if it was the ink that caused this or if that was present ahead of time.
Top view of the Pilot nib after six days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This view nicely shows the pits corroded into the top surface of the nib.
Underside view of the Pilot nib after six days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This view shows many pits corroded along the edges of the nib.
Underside view of the Pilot nib after six days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This view shows many pits corroded along the edges of the nib.
Top view of the Pilot nib after six days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This view nicely shows the pits corroded into the top surface of the nib.

In six days, the Aristotle ink completely obliterated both the Bock and Jowo nibs. So much for the gold hindering corrosion, eh? The Pilot nib had a bunch of tiny specks eaten into it, but the structural integrity of the nib was fine. In other words, the Pilot nib was still completely usable. The Knox nib showed no damage at all. I did notice one small spot on the back edge, but that was it.

I took photos, gently cleaned the nibs with Dawn to remove my finger oils, patted them dry with a clean paper towel, and returned them to their original containers for more soaking.

My Expectations: I expected the corrosion to continue at the same pace, that the Knox nib would start to corrode, and that the Bock nib would look like Swiss Cheese.

Day 12: Not Nearly as Dramatic

After five more days, I removed the nibs from the ink, gently cleaned them with Dawn, and patted them dry with a clean paper towel. Here’s how the nibs fared:

  • Bock Nib: Few more spots, but hole in middle seems unchanged. Big chunk out of shoulder (Ink kind of sticky on nib).
  • Newton/Jowo: Ink sticky again, took wiping to get it off. More pits on shoulders. Overall, not much change.
  • Knox: Still just the one spot. No other marks whatsoever.
  • Pilot: Pits slightly more pronounced. Maybe a couple more. Discolored spot on back of nib.
Top view of the Bock nib after 11 days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This view shows the worsening of the pits corroded along the slit. It also shows a large, new hole at the shoulder.
Underside view of the Bock nib after 11 days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This view shows the new large pit/hole eaten into the shoulder of the nib.
Top view of the Bock nib after 11 days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This view shows the large pits in the face of the nib, including the hole corroded all the way through.
Underside view of the Jowo nib after 11 days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This view shows the corrosion around the slit and several large pits in the shoulder of the nib.
This view of the end of the Knox nib shows the same pit discovered 5 days earlier, with the pit not showing any signs of worsening over time.
Underside view of the Pilot nib after 11 days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. The Pilot nib is still structurally sound, but has a large discolored spot on the underside of the nib and many pits along the edges of the nib.

At this point, I was kind of floored. How could this ink destroy the Jowo and Bock nibs but not touch the Knox? I started to come to a conclusion on that Knox nib, but I’ll save that for later. Overall, the corrosion slowed down to a crawl, with only the Bock nib getting noticeably worse. My assumption is that that acid started to neutralize, maybe from the iron it corroded (Dammit, Jim, I’m not a metallurgist!).

I took photos, gently cleaned them with Dawn to remove my finger oils, patted them dry with a clean paper towel, and returned them to their original containers for one last go ’round.

Expectations: I expected the Knox nib to continue being unaffected and that any additional corrosion would be minimal as it seems to have slowed down.

Day 20: End of the Blue Line (Mind the Gap)

I left the nibs in the ink for another nine days, figuring that should allow time for any remaining corrosion to play out. Here are the results:

  • Bock Nib: One more large spot formed on the front face of the nib.
  • Newton/Jowo: New giant pit on the face of the nib that wasn’t there before.
  • Knox: Still just the one spot.
  • Pilot: Pits are slightly more pronounced, maybe one or two additional ones.
An image of all four steel nibs (Knox, Jowo, Bock, and Pilot), lit from behind for a clear view of any major damage the nibs sustained after being submerged in Organics Studio Aristotle Iron Gall ink for 20 days.
Top view of the Bock nib after 20 days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This view shows the final state of the large pits and the holes corroded all the way through the nib.
Top view of the Bock nib after 20 days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This view shows the final state of the pits corroded along the slit.
Underside view of the Bock nib after 20 days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This view shows the final state of the holes corroded straight through the nib and the huge pit on the shoulder of the nib.
Top view of the Jowo nib after 20 days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This view shows the corrosion around the slit and and one giant new pit on the face of the nib.
A view of the end of the Knox nib after 20 days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. The only blemish on this nib after nearly three weeks of soaking is this one pit. I'm starting to believe the pit was there before I started.
Top view of the Pilot nib after 20 days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. The pits may have gotten slightly larger.
Another top view of the Pilot nib after 20 days in the Aristotle Iron Gall ink. This image shows all the pitting around the Pilot logo, which is engraved/etched into the steel.

Findings & Conclusions

Overall, I wasn’t surprised. For this ink to have eaten two Chinese nibs (even if the steel was cheap), I knew it had to be pretty darn acidic. I expected all four of these “higher quality” nibs to show corrosion, but I had no idea to what extent each would corrode. Here are my conclusions:

  • The sample of Organics Studio Aristotle Iron Gall ink that I received was acidic enough to destroy four steel nibs (Hero, Jinhao, Bock, Jowo) and cause minor damage to a fifth (Pilot).
  • The bulk of damage occurred within the first five days, with subsequent corrosion dramatically trailing off in severity.
  • After the last round, I rinsed out the sample vials, thinking I could reuse them. But the three vials that housed the Bock, Jowo, and Pilot nibs had residue in them that wouldn’t rinse out. I’m guessing it’s the corroded iron particles sticking to the sides. The vial that housed the Knox nib didn’t have any.
  • As a huge surprise, the Knox nib was completely untouched. I have to wonder if that one spot I found was there at the start and I just didn’t notice it. Considering the ink came from the same sample vial as the others, my only guess as to why the Knox nib did not corrode is that it might be made out of some other alloy…something without iron in it. If only there were some way to test that…Oh wait! Magnets!

This is a shot of the four ink vials at the conclusion of the test, and after they had been rinsed out. The clean one on the far right housed the Knox nib. I suspect the "goo" in the other three vials is the corroded iron from the nibs.

Fatal Attraction

I fished out a super powerful neodymium magnet to test the iron content in all four nibs. I placed the nibs on the counter with the “logo side” facing up. I then hovered the neodymium magnet over each nib to see how much magnetic force was generated. No, I don’t have the equipment to measure anything, so it’s more or less an eyeball comparison.

  • The Bock nib snapped onto the magnet easily, indicating a good amount of iron. This was expected due to the level of corrosion that occurred.
  • Likewise, the Jowo nib snapped onto the magnet easily, indicating a good amount of iron. This also was expected due to the level of corrosion that occurred.
  • The Pilot nib was somewhat attracted to the magnet. It didn’t “snap” onto it, though. The hold was far more tenuous and the nib sort of dangled from the magnet. Given that this nib suffered far less corrosion, a lower iron content makes sense, so this was expected.
  • Here’s where things fall apart. The Knox nib snapped onto the magnet easily, indicating that it has roughly similar iron content as the Bock and Jowo nibs. What? WTF!?? How is this possible? HOW, dammit? Now I’m starting to think the Knox nib is plated with Kryptonite or something.

Unanswered Questions

Although this experiment answered a couple questions, I’m walking away with even more. We now know that the “cheap Chinese steel” hypothesis is BS. My sample of Aristotle was able to corrode steel nibs from China, Germany, and Japan within 4 to 5 days, having completely annihilated nibs from both China and Germany.

But now I have more questions that I want answered:

  • Is it fair to say that Organics Studio Aristotle Iron Gall ink is too acidic for pens with steel parts, or was this sample from a bad batch?
  • Would other Iron Gall inks have caused similar damage to any of these nibs?
  • Why did the corrosion slow down after the first few days? What would have happened if I put the nibs in fresh ink instead of the same ink after each review?
  • Why did the Knox nib not corrode? Is it plated with something? If so, then what? And how thick it is the plating? The gold plating on the Bock and Jowo nibs was unable stop the corrosion, so why did the Knox nib fare so well? It’s baffling, man! Baffling!

Important Note

The only ink I tested in this follow-on experiment was Organics Studio Aristotle. In the past, I have used Iron Gall inks from both KWZ and Rohrer & Klingner, and I did not experience any corrosion with either one.

Next Steps

This is going to eat at me. Pun intended. I’m almost compelled to run another experiment testing nib corrosion in several different inks. To do that properly and fairly, though, I’m going to need between 15 and 18 nibs and several new, unopened bottles of ink. I’m happy to buy the ink, but the nibs will cost a small fortune. I don’t know…we’ll see about that.

I’d love your thoughts on all of this. Hit me up in the comments!

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Comments

  1. Sue Anderson

    February 11, 2018 at 10:15 pm

    Looking forward to your next experiment.

    Reply
    • Ken Crooker

      February 11, 2018 at 10:18 pm

      LOL, thanks, Sue! I may have to get a second job to fund the next one. 😀

      Reply
  2. chrisrap52

    February 11, 2018 at 11:47 pm

    My suggestion, stay away from Organic Studio inks. I also have lots of experience with KWZ & Rohrer & Klingner IG inks in many pens with NO issues. Nibs should be made from stainless steel, not plain steel. Stainless steel has chromium to provide corrosion resistance. May have other metals, like nickel for increased ductility. 18/8 is the most commonly used stainless steel and contains 18% chromium and 8% nickel, not magnetic. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainless_steel for more info. Suggest you try ink on some stainless steel utensils or a steel nail. Some gold steel nibs have a gold wash (very thin coating) others maybe plated (quality & thickness varies greatly), which should hold up better but could provide uneven coating. Looking forward to this continuing experiment.

    Reply
    • Ken Crooker

      February 12, 2018 at 5:51 am

      Thanks for the info on different steels, Chris! I’m going to have to do some heavy research on materials. The Knox nib is still perplexing in that it is still magnetic, but has something to very effectively prevent corrosion. As always, thanks for reading and for taking the time to share your thoughts!

      Reply
  3. ekfritz

    February 12, 2018 at 10:27 am

    FPnibs.com has Jowo nibs for reasonable prices. Have you looked there?

    Reply
    • Ken Crooker

      February 12, 2018 at 8:06 pm

      Hi ekfritz! Thanks for the suggestion. I’m definitely aware of FPNibs, but haven’t started doing any pricing yet. If I do the next experiment, I’m looking at getting 24 nibs (6 each of four different nibs), so any deal I can get my hands on will help. Thanks for reading, and thanks for the suggestion!

      Reply
      • Maxwell Erickson

        March 19, 2018 at 9:15 pm

        Hey Ken! I just wanted to mention that I believe you can buy nibs for as low as $3 from the Fountain Pen Revolution site. If that helps!

        Reply
        • Ken Crooker

          March 19, 2018 at 9:21 pm

          Thanks, Maxwell! You’re right, they have inexpensive nibs at FPR. If I do another experiment, I’m planning on using 6 Jowo nibs, 6 Jinhao nibs, 6 Knox nibs, and either 6 Nemosine or 6 Noodlers/FPR nibs. I’ll soak one of each in iron gall inks from four different manufacturers, plus a couple other liquids for comparison. If I do another one, I’m going for as close to scientific as I can. Thanks for the suggestion!

          Reply
  4. Jon Whitehorn

    February 12, 2018 at 9:51 pm

    I wonder if Knox does some kind of clear E-coating on their nibs. That would explain the apparent added protection to oxidation. Jewelers use clear e-coating on metals like copper to both preserve an intended patina and protect the metal from the salts in your skin from turning the metal green (and discoloring your own skin, to boot). Usually not a noticeable addition to the metal, except that it will look a bit shinier. Early reports on Knox said that their fine nibs kinda sucked, but their broads and stubs were weirdly good. This coating could have been to blame for poor performance with fines, but helped the out-of-the-box writing performance of a wider tip.

    Awesome test!

    Reply
    • Ken Crooker

      February 12, 2018 at 10:15 pm

      Hi Jon, thank you so much for the info on clear e-coating. The Knox nibs are pretty shiny, so I guess that’s a possibility. I have a Knox Galileo with either a fine or extra fine nib. It was smooth, but a lot broader than I would have liked. This corrosion resistance vaults them up my recommendations list, though. Thank you for your input. I really appreciate it!

      Reply
  5. Doran Oon

    February 13, 2018 at 1:33 am

    hiya, just dropping my 2 cents here.
    a non magnetic metal does not indicate a lack of iron; there are 2 common types of stainless steel(SS): austenitic & ferritic. austenitic(300 series) SS is not magnetic, & ferritic(400 series) is magnetic. austentic metals tend to have higher corrosion resistance, while ferritic tends to have lower resistance. while this is the case, there are some grades of ferritic SS that have pretty decent corrosion resistance(420 grade SS i think?). so it’s pretty likely the knox was made of 420 grade SS, the pilot was made of something in the 300 series, and the other 2 were made of something with low corrosion resistance from the 400 series. i’m not a metallurgist either, but i think this is the basis of your findings(rip nibs).

    Reply
    • Ken Crooker

      February 13, 2018 at 5:48 am

      Hi Doran, thank you for the great info on SS. Your description makes a lot of sense and would definitely answer my questions around the Knox nib. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and thanks for reading!

      Reply
  6. Greg Moore

    February 14, 2018 at 1:33 am

    Ken,
    Thank you for your experiments. This was really interesting. Anyone that calls you stupid says more about them than you. I think I need to buy more Knox nibs. Lol Really unexpected.

    Reply
    • Ken Crooker

      February 14, 2018 at 5:53 am

      Thanks, Greg! Yeah, no doubt on the Knox nibs. They’re definitely a lot higher on my list after this. What is uncertain work them, though, is whether it’s because of the steel used to make them or some kind of coating. I’m guessing it’s the steel, but I may do a follow-on test with a modified/ground Knox nib to see if there’s any corrosion on the ground surfaces (where any potential coating would be removed). I see how scientists can spend years testing one theory… Every possibility leads to another experiment (bunny trail).

      Reply
  7. Escribo

    March 9, 2018 at 9:47 pm

    Well… dadgum! I think I’m going to get my favorite ink, KWZ IG Mandarin, out of my steel-nibbed Bex toot sweet! Maybe it’s just Organics Studio, and not all IGs (you indicated KWZ is safe), but still… I need to do some testing on a throwdown pen before I put an IG back into a treasured pen.

    Reply
    • Ken Crooker

      March 9, 2018 at 9:59 pm

      Hi and thanks for reading, Escribo. I’ve only heard of a handful of other pens damaged by Organics Studio Aristotle, so I’m still open to the possibility that it was a bad batch. IG Mandarin is a beautiful ink, btw.

      Reply
  8. Bryan Haas

    August 28, 2019 at 10:57 am

    Hydrochloric acid can be used to clean rust off of steel so what is disolving in the nib’s metal is unlikely to be the iron content and more likely to be one of the other metal. FYI: that discoloration in one of the pictures is rust, or oxidized stainless steel. Maybe dip each nib in acid and see what happens, use glass beakers though. Muriatic acid (same as hydrochloric acid or hcl) can be acquired at the hardware store.

    Reply
  9. Robert

    September 25, 2019 at 6:51 am

    Hi Ken, nice experiment. It seems that galvanic corrosion is a major factor in what you’ve observed. Electroplating might help at first glance. Cutting through the plated steel, however, creates a galvanic element. That’s why you see corrosion primarily at the slit of the plated nibs and why pure steel nibs behave much better in such an environment.

    Reply
  10. Kikko

    November 1, 2019 at 11:27 am

    I apoligize for my poor english.
    Haven’t you noticed that the corrosion was more in the gold plated nibs, or in the gold plated parts of a two tone nib, than in the bare stainless steel nibs?
    The point is GALVANIC CORROSION! Gold plating doesn’t protect a steel nib! Contrariwise it make steel weaker to corrosion (galvanic-corrosion, pitting) when in an acid solution.
    If you match a noble metal (gold) with a less noble metal (steel) in an acid solution, you will sacrifice the less noble one as in a Volta’s battery. The reverse happens in the galvanized steel (zinc + steel) where the less noble zinc will protect steel.
    Also see “galvanic corrosion” on wikipedia.

    Reply
  11. Mikel

    November 2, 2019 at 9:26 am

    Because of the galvanic corrosion, the gold layer does not protect the steel. Instead, the difference of electrical potential between gold and steel attacks steel.
    A steel that resists corrosion in its naked form, may be severely attacked in the same environment, if gilded.

    Reply
  12. Tim Baker

    November 16, 2021 at 2:08 am

    I have a feeling that the corrosion stopped because you were using the same ink – which in a pen you have fresh ink constantly.

    I’m guessing the oxidisation changed the PH of the ink or chemically changed it in some way, making it less damaging.

    Reply
  13. Moira Aingeal Maclean

    January 17, 2023 at 2:39 pm

    Better late than never, but : there are two main families of Iron Gall Ink, sulphuric acid ones and hydrochloric acid ones.

    The Sulfur ones are how they were made historically in the middle ages, ’cause that acid is very stable and easy to make. But it also means that it stays there and eat your pen and paper.

    HCl ones, on the other hand, once the iron gall has reacted, are set once and for all. Hydrochloric acid is a gas and what has not reacted will dissipate, sparing nib and paper.

    Plus, modern inks are precisely made ( « stoichiometric proportions » ) so as not to have excess acid.

    I use Jinhao demonstrators pens, less than 2$ per pen, not great quality but at that price you can change them when you want, with ESS Registrar Ink, and I’ve been using the same pen for over one year now. No sign of corrosion.

    And Iron Gall inks are the most well behaved inks I’ve ever tried, they write neat even on shitty recycled paper 🙂

    Take care

    — Moira

    Reply

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You may have noticed that I haven't posted anything in a really long time. Sorry about that. Once we started up the St. Louis Pen Show and the St. Louis pen meetups, most of my free "pen time" started going into those activities.

My goal was always to write very thorough reviews with lots of great pictures, and that takes a ton of time. The writing, editing, and photo editing for one review took up a full weekend, and that doesn't take into account actually using the pens and taking notes along the way. With all I have going on, it just wasn't sustainable to keep this site going on a consistent basis.

Will I ever come back and start doing reviews again? Maybe. But not anytime soon. I am still around, though. You can catch me at the monthly St. Louis Area Pen Meetup & Eats (SLAPME) events, the St. Louis Pen Show, and a handful of other pen shows around the country.

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